The memory still brings a rueful smile to my face, all these years laterthe day when a table heaving with food met guests who brought not even a bunch of grapes or a token bottle. I remember the soft click of the fridge door, closed with quiet resolution, and the way the sun streamed through the London flat at noon, casting pale rectangles on a kitchen that could have been mistaken for the aftermath of a siege.
Edward, are you quite sure three kilos of pork shoulder will suffice? I fretted as I surveyed the chaos: bowls, pans, all manner of herbs scattered like confetti. Last time they cleared every dish, even wiped the bread bowl clean with the sauce. And Lydiashe demanded a container to take some for her dog, then posted a picture online of my roast as though shed made it herself.
Edward, my husband, was at the kitchen sink silently peeling potatoes. The mound of peelings grew, as did his subtle irritation, though he kept it to himself and instead focused on methodically rinsing another potato. Jane, how much more do they need? Three kilos for four guests and the two of us? Thats practically half a kilo apiece. Theyll burst. Youve already pushed the boat outred caviar, salmon, massive salads. Were not holding a wedding, love, just a housewarming, even if it is a bit belated.
You dont understand, I retorted, stirring a thick, fragrant sauce on the hob. Its Emma and William, Lydia and Tom. Old friends, making the journey all the way across town. Can you imagine the whispers if we put on a poor show? Theyll say were letting the new flat go to our heads, being stingy now weve bought somewhere.
Id always been one for hospitalitysomething passed down from my grandmother, they used to say, who could whip up a meal for a regiment out of turnips and optimism. For me, an under-dressed table was an insult. Guests meant a feast, and any celebration meant groaning tables. Id spent the week crafting a menu, putting a bit away each payday for that French brandy William adored, for the Bordeaux Emma preferred.
Wouldnt hurt if they brought something themselves, for a change, muttered Edward. Remember Toms birthday? We brought an expensive gift, wine, and you even baked your best cake. But what did we get that time we popped over to theirs? A mug of old teabags and stale biscuits.
Oh, dont begrudge them, Ed. I looked at him, half-chiding. They were in a bind thenall those mortgage payments, the refurb. But its sorted now. Williams just had a promotion, Lydias parading about in her new fur coatshowed off the photos. Maybe they will bring along something: cake, perhaps. I pointedly told Emma dessert was for them to provide.”
By five, the flat was immaculate and the dining room looked like the window display of a Mayfair delicatessen. There, pride of place, was the jellied ox tongue. Around it, a parade of salads worthy of any high teahomemade Oliver salad with lobster, not plain ham; layered herring, sparkling with red caviar; arrays of cured ham and roast beef. The pork shoulder roasted in the oven atop rustic potatoes with wild mushrooms, and chilled wine and spirits filled the fridge.
Exhausted yet quietly satisfied, I donned my finest dress and touched up my hair. Nervous excitement fluttered in me. Im a bit on edge, I admitted as Edward fiddled with his cufflinks. The first do in our new place. I want it to be perfect.
The bell rang promptly at five. Punctual as ever.
I dashed to the door. On the threshold was a loud, jostling group. Emma in that infamous fur coatworth half our redecoratingWilliam in well-cut leather, Lydia artfully made-up, and Tom, already rosy-cheeked from a pre-party tipple.
Hurrah! The new home! Emma exclaimed, charging in and enveloping me in a cloud of her heavy perfume. Come, show us your palace!
They spilled in, casting overcoats haphazardly at Edward as he struggled with hangers and hooks. I stood aside, searching their hands. Empty. Entirely, disappointingly empty. Not a gift bag, not a box, not a bottle of plonk or a slab of chocolate.
Where I began but stopped short. It would have been rude to ask. Surely, I thought, perhaps theyd left it in the car?
Jane, youre looking positively sylph-like! Lydia pecked my cheek and, without removing her boots, strolled into the hallway. Oh, rather plain, isnt it? Youve gone for paintable wallpaper? Dreadfullooks like an office. Shouldve chosen silk.
We like the minimalist style, Edward replied, barely managing civility. Come through, the tables set.
The guests poured into the dining room. Williams eyes gleamed with predatory anticipation. Look at this spread! Jane, youre a marvel. Ive not eaten all day, saving space for your legendary roast.
Everyone found their seat. I dashed to the kitchen for the hot startersbaked mushrooms in little potsa constant loop in my mind: Maybe the gift is money in a card? Thats the reason for empty hands, surely?
Returning, I found them already well into the salads, no toast awaited. Spot on with the Oliver! Tom grunted, mouth full. Ed, pour us the drinks, will you? Throats like the Sahara.
Edward distributed vodka and wine. To the new home! William crowed. May you never quarrel with the neighbours or spring a leak. Cheers!
He downed his vodka and wiped his mouth with a shirtsleevelinen napkins lay in plain sightand attacked the red fish next.
Whys the vodka not frozen? William grumbled through a mouthful.
Its straight from the fridge, five degrees, as recommended, I replied carefully, irritation pricking.
Cant beat it chilled to syrup. Oh well, never mind. Got any brandy for later then?
Yes, but perhaps after weve eaten?
Doesnt hurt to do both, Tom guffawed.
The meal picked up pace. Plates emptied at a shocking rate, as if theyd been fasting for days, criticism tumbling out with each bite.
This herrings a tad dry, Emma pronounced, scooping her third portion. Done for the sake of mayonnaise, did you?
Its my homemade mayonnaise, a lighter blend, I explained, abashed.
Oh play the game, Lydia scoffed. Store-bought is fine. And this caviartiny stuff. Shouldve gone for the larger roe.
I exchanged a look with Edward. His knuckles white on his fork, he was crimson with silent fury.
So, whats new with everyone? Edward pursued a neutral topic. Emma, did you have that trip to Dubai?
Oh, it was divine! Emma rolled her eyes dramatically. Five-star hotel, champagne galore. Bought myself a real Louis Vuitton. Worth every pennytwo grand that was, but you live once! William bitched a bit, but whats life, eh?
Women and their splurges, William chimed, helping himself to more brandy. Ive got my sights set on a new motor. Crossover, top of the line. We save, dont throw it away doing up the place.
Meaning? I queried.
Well, walls are just walls, Lydia replied. Weve lived with my nans wallpaper for ten years. Better to holiday every year, splash out on clothes and nice dinners. Youre boringspent it all on bricks and mortar.
Speaking of restaurants, Tom interjected, dropping his greasy napkin straight onto the tablecloth, We ate at The Savoy last night. Blew a hundred quid, but its the place to be! Not this home cooking lark. Jane, is the roast ready soon? Salads are just rabbit foodI want meat.
I collected the dirty plates, hands shaking. These were the same people boasting of luxury bags and five-star meals, yet had come to my home empty-handed. Not even a modest bunch of daffodils or a bar of Dairy Milk for afters.
I retreated to the kitchen. Emma soon followed, pretending to help but really wanting a chat.
Oh Jane, honestly, she stage-whispered as she leaned in the doorway. Youve put on a grand spread, but its clear youre spent. The wines a bit… basic. The sort of thing wed pull out at a barbecue. Should treat your guests a touch better.
Thats a Bordeaux, Emma. Twenty pounds a bottle, I murmured, stacking the dishwasher.
Really? Youve been had, thenits tart as vinegar. Any chance you can pack us up some leftovers for tomorrow? Hangovers coming and we cant be fussed to cook. Theres so much here, after all, itll just go to waste.
I froze with a plate mid-air. You want me to box up food for you?
Of course, its what everyone does. Saves a few quid! Got any dessert? Im craving something sweet. Got a cake on hand?
I said dessert was for you to bring, I reminded gently.
Me? Dont be daft, Im on a diet, dont buy sweets. Thought youd bake your famous Victoria sponge. Or at least buy something decent. We didnt bring anything because, well, with this flat, youve got everything. Rolling in it now.
I set the plate down with a decisive chink. “So, you just thought we had it all, and that were awash with money?
Well, obviously! You bought a place, did it up. Whats a few extra pounds for you? Weve got to savehoping for the Maldives next year. Anywaybring out the meat, the chaps are getting hungry.
I watched Emma and my mind reeled with memories. The time I lent her money for a last-minute trip, repaid in dribs and drabs with no thanks. When Edward helped William move and he didnt even chip in for petrol. How they always came to us for occasions, eating heartily, but hosted us maybe once in a blue moon with cheap Scotch eggs and frozen pizza.
I went to the oven, opened it, and was hit by the lush aroma of slow-roast pork and garlic. The golden crackling glistened, the mushrooms rich and earthy. I glanced at the fridge; inside was a great pavlova with berries, ordered as a surprise for twenty quid. Id done it anyway, even though dessert had been their job.
I closed the oven, snapped off the gas, and pressed the fridge door tight.
Therell be no roast, I said, voice firm.
What? Emma blinked. Youve burnt it, havent you?
No, its fine. I simply wont be serving it.
Back in the dining room, the men were topping up their drinks, loud in political debate. Edward looked at me, searching. I drew a breath.
Dear guests, the evening is over, I announced, my voice cutting through their chatter.
All fell silent, faces incredulous.
Jane, whats this in aid of? William asked. Weve not had the main yet! You cant be serious!
I am, I nodded. Ive changed my mind.
Lydia scowled. Were still hungry! Wheres the meat? Dont act up, Jane.
Its staying in the oven. And youll be going home now. Or to the Savoyyou seemed to enjoy it there. Im done.
You must be drunk! Tom blurted. Edward, sort your wife out! This is madnesswere guests!
Edward stood slowly and looked at me, then them. He saw my hands trembling, my tears held back by outrage and exhaustion. And he understood.
Jane isnt drunk, Edward said, voice steady. Shes simply had enough. You came empty-handed, drank my brandy, mocked my wifes food, her choice of wine, and our homeand now you demand more?
We were joking! Emma wailed. So what if we forgot a cake! At least we gave you our company! You ought to be grateful.
Company at our expense? I laughed. No, thank you. I spent the morning slaving in here. Spent half my months wage on that table. I did it for youand all youve offered is scorn. Parasites, the lot of you. Swanning off to Dubai, yet not sparing a penny for a hostess gift.
Oh, thats rich, William fumed, throwing down his napkin. Choked over a meal, are you? Fine, keep your roast! Were leaving. Wont darken your door again.
Coats are in the hall, Edward said, holding the door wide. And, pleasemake sure your containers go with you. Empty, of course.
They stormed out, slamming and shouting about my supposed pettiness and ruined evenings. Emma declared on the stairs that our friendship was finished. Lydia muttered curses. Tom and William were the last, muttering about never again.
When the door finally closed, dropping the flat into peaceful silence, I stood swaying amidst chaosempty plates, wine stains on the tablecloth, balled napkins.
Edward put his arm about my shoulders. Are you alright?
My hands wont stop shaking, I admitted. Edward, was I mean-spirited? Should I have just fed them and kept quiet? They were guests, after all
You werent mean, Jane. You stood up for yourself. Im proud of you. Truly, Id have thrown them out myself if you hadnt. They crossed every line.
I sighed and rested into him.
And the roast? Edward grinned slyly. You really held it back? Because the smell is torture, darling.
I laughed, suddenly and freely, for the first time that day. “Its all there. And the pavlova, too. Massive, with berries and cream.
So we sat at the very same table, pushing dirty crockery aside. I brought out the roast; we poured ourselves the vinegary Bordeaux, which in truth was velvet and deep, fit for kings.
To us,” Edward toasted. “And that our door only opens to those who bring open hearts, not just empty hands.
We ate, relished the stillness, each others company, and the meal that Id poured my heart into. In all our years, I don’t think we ever enjoyed supper more.
Much later, my old phone pingedEmma, of course: What a cow you are! Sitting here at McDonalds, choking on burgers. Cant believe you! You owe us an apology!
I read it, chuckled, and blocked her number. Then did the same for Lydia, William, and Tom.
My contacts list grew smaller by four. But suddenly the air in our home felt lighter. And the fridge was packed for the week ahead. Not a scrap would go to those who never deserved it.
Ill always remember: friendships a two-way street. And sometimes, shutting the fridge door is how you remember who you are.












